Side-Decking - What to Consider When Building Yours

Introduction

This is a revamped version of an earlier article I wrote, to more broadly encompass the theory and practice of side-decking. It is written chiefly to assist those who have questions on proper methods of siding, as well as those that are simply unfamiliar or inexperienced with the tool as a whole. It is my hope to shed light on the subject, that the more competitive player may understand and use siding more effectively throughout their matches.

Secondly, this is written because, as I have glanced through a plethora of deck lists on Pojo and Dueling Network, I see side decks that are oddly built when their deck as a whole is considered. It begs the question of whether they know what they are doing, are simply siding against the meta, or whatever their experience and understanding of the subject has led them toward. Although a common misconception is that the side deck is made to combat the strong decks of the format, this is only partially true. Read on to understand why.

Lastly, this is not written as a means of what to side, but how to side effectively. Intrinsically, this means that I will not tell you what to side against the current meta. The thinking player will discover that on their own, either through searching the sea of cards or checking side decks of builds that top events to better grasp what works against popular archetypes.

With that, we begin.

Creating a Side Deck

While a side deck is certainly useful in making a duel more favorable against your opponent, the complete goal of its use is to combat the decks that give you trouble. More broadly put, it is to offer strength to your deck by either compensating for weaknesses that your bad match-ups are exploiting to give you problems, or cutting them down by making their cards unplayable and less effective. Some even use the side to change their deck completely, such as shifting from Self-Destruct Button into Empty Jar.

You should only side for the deck types that you have difficulty overcoming. Because you only have fifteen cards to work with and a chromatic ocean of decks to potentially face, card slots are very precious. Do not waste them to better your chances against a match that is even, or worse, favorable; this is not to say you should not side against those match-ups when your side deck is complete. This is strongly recommended to ensure you come away with the win.

However, do not isolate slots in the side specifically to cover match-ups for which you need not. Tied into this is flexibility. Your side should cover a very wide array of problems as opposed to one, and be carefully constructed after analysis of your deck is complete. You must understand how your deck operates, what its weaknesses are, and how they can be exploited. If you've ever looked at a deck list that tops a YCS, you may notice these players have done this.

A perfect example of this is found within the Samurai archetype. When they were popular, many sided such cards as Kinetic Soldier to easily deal with the Warrior-Type monsters. On the surface, the card seems to be a powerful force, but it contains a vital weakness: it must do battle to be of benefit. Thus, players sided or main-decked Dimensional Prison to hit the card and banish it. That single card can take two slots in the side, and rid of a problem card forever.

Choices for cards can be complex because there are more cards to deal with Samurai than Kinetic Soldier, such as Puppet Plant, which is a bit more difficult to nullify. However, when considering the cards which they may side, ponder what are both most common and most dangerous. Because Puppet Plant is for one turn, it is unlikely to cost you the game as much as a rampaging Kinetic Soldier might. This presents a choice of preference, but one should also consider using cards that cover an array of options. For example, Dimensional Fissure and Macro Cosmos cover such things as Lightsworn, Dark World, and the meddlesome Puppet Plant; though Samurai are now much less used, one can see my points.

This is less important if you are using a rogue deck: a deck that is uncommon, and thus, unprepared for by your peers. It affords a luxury of allowance when you build a side deck. For example, my recently posted deck-out stall deck (Annoying.dek) would not be something people at a YCS are thinking about when they build their side. They are much more concerned with the top tier decks that can hurt them. As a result, I have the fortune to build my side specifically to handle my bad match-ups without regard to what they might side. Further, my main deck is constructed to deal with the biggest threats to it, and this allots more freedom when siding. When contemplating the weaknesses of your deck, consider if you would be better off with running counters in the main build as opposed the side.

Using my side as an example, its weaknesses are Special Summons and destructive effects. Because I run pure stall, I have no room for backrow destruction. So, I side accordingly to deal with problems, while at the same time minimizing taken slots for accorded threats. Special Summons lose to Fossil Dyna Pachycephalo. I side three and move on. Damaging effects from Hyperion and Lightsworn decks lose to Light-Imprisoning Mirror, as does Black Luster Soldier – Envoy of the Beginning. I side three and focus on the next danger. Inzektors and Dark World weep before the reflection of Shadow-Imprisoning Mirror, and the card covers other annoyances like Dark-Armed Dragon and Chaos Sorcerer. Other decks that like to play in the grave, Lightsworn, Chaos and Dark World included, are further crippled by Macro Cosmos; I choose this over Dimensional Fissure because I can Chain to the effects of cards like Dark World Lightning and Gate of Dark World. Lastly, three Mystical Space Typhoon covers Skill Drain and other constant presences that give my deck stress.

One should see the flexibility that my side provides, while at the same time inflicting maximum damage to the options of my opponents; although my deck can be crippled by existing cards that slaughter Continuous Spells and Traps, I ask, “Who puts these in their side when they go to a tournament?” Many think 3 Mystical Space Typhoon and Heavy Storm is enough to deal with any stall deck. I main deck 3 Dark Bribe, 2 Judgment of Anubis, 1 Starlight Road and 1 Huge Revolution Reversal alongside Solemn Judgment to deal with this. Again, consider if it is more beneficial to make space for threats in the main deck, as I have.

Top tier decks do not have such a luxury; everyone sides against them. Users of them must pay special attention to means of dealing with crippling threats. To not do so is to risk being hopeless against effective counters. Further using Samurai as an example, a card that stopped the speed of the deck in its tracks was Thunder King Rai-Oh. It forbade them from using searching cards or going for their formerly formidable first turn Shi En. Smashing Ground deals with it nicely, provided you deal with any other potential targets of the Spell.

Additionally, higher tier decks should plan for the most damaging card possible. Lightsworn and Hyperion must expect dangerous cards like Light-Imprisoning Mirror and Leeching the Light to be sided against them. Once more, decide how much those two cards can hurt you; Dust Tornado and Twister can snipe the Mirror, but Leeching the Light is far more brutal. Both cripple any Light deck, and the latter is difficult to counter, especially now that Honest is Limited.

As a final rule, when you have more than one option for a side deck slot, choose the one that does the most damage for its purpose.

We now move on to specific focus on siding in the midst of a Match.

Preparing for Round 2

This section devotes itself to the mindset and strategy one should employ as the match begins the second phase. It is largely connected with the deck type you are using and whether you struggled or lost the first game. It's pretty easy to identify damaging cards, so ponder what they did and how their deck runs; why did you lose? Bad luck? An unstoppable monster? Did they exploit weaknesses in your deck and cripple you as a result? What makes their deck flow and how can you use that to your benefit?

If you lost the first game, and in a dominating fashion, you will need to side as hard as you can. Reflect on how their deck operates and what things you can both do without in your main deck for the duration of the duel and what cards you can exchange to inflict maximum damage to their strategy. Pull no punches. After all, you must win the next two duels in a row if you lost the first. You should have an idea of how their deck works and the key cards involved with their strategy. Cover these threats as best you can.

If you won, you have an advantage. You only have to win one more game, while they have to win two. Whether you won or lost, the flow of the last duel will dictate how you proceed. It is your prerogative to decide how hard you side against a match when you win game one; do not hesitate to side against favorable or even match-ups as hard as you can even if you won the first game. There is little need to approach the next duel with an arrogant confidence or impression that you have a game you can afford to lose and therefore do not need to side for.

Winning the first game allows you to play a bit more conservatively. You can afford, however wisely, to see more of their deck and what cards they've decided to side against you. Regardless of the last duel, you should save your problem-solvers for the accorded problems or strengths of your opponent's deck. If your deck was crippled by the use of Skill Drain, save your Mystical Space Typhoons, Dust Tornadoes and Twisters to snipe it rather than using them on potentially nonthreatening face-down cards. As you do this, keep watch for their sided cards and consider how dangerous they are to you compared the initial threats. Alter your tactics accordingly as more of their deck is revealed.

Approaching Game Three

If you suffer the misfortune of going to game three, it's make-or-break. You have no choice but to win this game, and that means you must pull out all the stops. You should now have a very good idea of how their deck operates and at least seen a few sided cards. The same is true for them, so you must take care to consider how well your strategy has been working, and if you can further trade out inessential cards for better, more crippling choices. As with any card game, luck plays a pivotal role; if you never draw what you've sided, poor luck is the reason you didn't do well, not the cards you put in.

With that, this article comes to a close. I hope it will prove a useful resource to you, the reader, and any suggestions for further improvement or necessary elaboration are more than welcome.